Model in a floral-embroidered lace corset dress on the Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027 wildflower runway

Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027, Look 1

Elie Saab

Spring/Summer 2027 reveals a softer, more versatile side of the Lebanese house

By Josie NeJame

There’s something magical about a runway that feels as though you’ve stepped into a dream. For Spring/Summer 2027, Elie Saab created just that. Models moved through a landscape of delicate wildflowers, evoking the enchanting atmosphere of A Midsummer Night’s Dream. It was a beautiful setting for a collection that celebrated romance in its fullest expression, while revealing a softer, more versatile side of the Lebanese fashion house.

Long celebrated for his extraordinary evening gowns, intricate embellishments, and red-carpet glamour, Saab has built a reputation for creating unforgettable fashion moments. Yet this season, there was something noticeably different. The grandeur remained, but it was expressed through a more relaxed interpretation of femininity. Rather than relying on the elaborate sparkle and shimmer that is so often associated with the house, the collection found its beauty in movement, texture, and effortless sensuality.

Drawing inspiration from the elegance of 1930s Hollywood, Saab explored fluid silhouettes, delicate lace, and lingerie-inspired dressing. Slip dresses skimmed the body, and corset details introduced structure. We saw beautiful movement from sheer layers adding to our idea of romanticism. Soft pastels and floral accents enhanced the dreamlike atmosphere, while tailored pieces offered a contemporary contrast to the collection’s delicate femininity. There were echoes of Hollywood’s golden age, but interpreted through a modern lens that felt fresh rather than nostalgic.

“Feminine without being overly formal, sensual without sacrificing sophistication.”

At a time when many designers are exploring a more restrained interpretation of Spring, Saab seemed determined to embrace its most romantic possibilities. Florals were not simply an occasional accent, but an essential part of the collection’s identity. Delicate blossoms appeared through intricate embroidery and dimensional embellishments, while the runway itself unfolded like a garden in bloom. There’s something wonderfully refreshing about a designer leaning so fully into the beauty of the season rather than trying to reinvent it through restraint. The effect was almost theatrical, yet not overwhelming, and it still captured the spirit of A Midsummer Night’s Dream.

Perhaps the most interesting unveiling was the versatility of the designs. Rather than presenting a collection centered primarily on individual statement gowns, Saab introduced pieces that could be layered, combined, and reimagined. Delicate bralettes, tailored trousers, fluid skirts, and soft, structured jackets offered opportunities for personal styling. A relaxed jacket offered a practical counterpoint to the collection’s romantic silhouettes. Together, these elements suggested a wardrobe built around possibilities rather than singular occasions.

It’s a direction we’re getting to see across luxury fashion, where designers are finding new ways to make their collections feel both aspirational and adaptable. The emphasis isn’t necessarily on only one extraordinary piece, but on investing in beautiful designs that can become part of a larger wardrobe. Pieces that can be worn together, styled separately and given new life through personal expression. For a house so closely associated with the grandeur of evening wear, this approach felt like a natural evolution rather than a departure from its identity.

Model in a teal lace camisole and wrapped brown skirt at Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027

Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027, Look 10

Model in a pink lace bralette and matching skirt at Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027

Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027, Look 4

Model in a chocolate leather jacket and flowing skirt at Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027

Elie Saab Spring/Summer 2027, Look 7

What made the collection particularly appealing was its balance between fantasy and practicality. The gowns were still there, of course, floating with the kind of elegance that has made Elie Saab a favorite among women and Hollywood’s most elite who are seeking something extraordinary. But alongside them were designs that invited a different relationship with fashion. The romantic skirt could be styled with something more structured, while a delicate slip dress could take on an entirely different personality beneath a jacket. Luxury, in this context, became less about dressing for a single occasion and more about creating possibilities.

Even the presentation itself seemed to reflect this philosophy. The wildflowers, delicate colors and fluid silhouettes created an atmosphere that felt almost otherworldly. Yet beneath the dreamlike setting was a collection grounded in how women might actually want to dress. Feminine without being overly formal, sensual without sacrificing sophistication and romantic without losing its modern edge.

Perhaps the most beautiful thing about this collection is that Elie Saab hasn’t abandoned the romance that made his name. He’s simply found new ways for women to live in it.

Photos courtesy of Elie Saab